There are more than 900 churches in Rome but this one is different.
It was so quiet it was spooky.
Even though I didn’t see any other person, I had a sense that someone was there. I walked around, listening closely, always thinking I heard something but never seeing anyone.
This is the Church of Saint Catherine of Alexandria – Rome’s first Russian Orthodox church in nearly 1000 years. After the Great Schism in 1054, when the Eastern Orthodox churches split away from the Catholic church, relations between the two were a little chilly and Rome remained a Catholic city. After a millennia of cooling off time, plans were made in the late 1800s to build a Russian Orthodox church in Rome. However, two world wars and 70 years of communism in Italy caused a slight delay.
Finally, in 2001, the city granted permission for a Russian Orthodox church to be built on the grounds of the Russian embassy and it opened in 2004. Delegates from both the Catholic church and the Russian Orthodox church were present at the opening, representing a significant step forward in mending relations between the two denominations. Important people from Russia were also there, such as the Russian president’s wife and the mayor of Moscow.
The architecture of the church is unquestionably Russian. The golden onion-shaped domes, turquoise porcelain roof tiles, and ornate gold trim are common features of Russian Orthodox churches around the world. I find Russian Orthodox churches so beautiful, with an aura of mystery – much like how I imagine Russia.
The church is situated on a hillside overlooking the Vatican. In the distance you can see the dome of St. Peter’s Cathedral. I walked around the platform surrounding the church and appreciated a sense of calm and tranquility. Uncommon sensations in Rome. Maybe that’s what seemed so eerie.
When it was time to go, I walked down the big stone staircases and turned back for one last look at the glimmering gold and tranquil turquoise. The visual beauty of this church made me feel weightless, held aloft on a soft cloud of air. I savoured the moment, turned, and walked back down the hillside. Back to the frenetic energy of Rome.
